NEPAL ON TWO WHEELS

NEPALONTWOWHEELS

Two-wheelers powered by people  bicycles serve many important purposes in Nepal

In the plains of Nepal, a bicycle is more than just a means of transportation. Stripped of all frills, bikes can withstand mud, uneven terrain, and heavy loads. 

Text: Elisa Rimaila, Photos: Antti Yrjönen, Videos: Antti Yrjönen & Ville Nykänen

WITH ITS WHEELS lifted off the ground, the bike’s inner tube is removed in an instant using a tyre level and a chisel. From Jugmani Chaudhary’s movements, you can tell she has done this hundreds of times. She dips the inner tube into the water in the wash tub and squeezes it.

Today, most of the customers are schoolchildren, especially young girls, and their bicycles. The finished bikes lean against the wall of the house. The bicycles must be able to withstand rough riding in the Terai region of southwestern Nepal. There are no hills, but the bikes must be durable.

Nainen istuu kyykyssä maassa korjaamassa polkupyörää Nepalissa. Taustalla näkyy muitakin polkupyöriä.
Jugmani Chaudhary trained in bicycle repair, and the profession changed her life. Now she has money left over to save.

The roads in rural areas are unpaved and in poor condition, and dozens of kilograms of goods are loaded onto the bike rack. What kind of bike works best in the village of Malakhet?

“The best bikes here are regular women’s bikes. They are easy to maintain and durable.”

Jakoavain-ikoni.

Queen of two wheels

As a bicycle repairer, Jugmani Chaudhary earns between 20,000 and 25,000 Nepalese rupees (approximately 120–150 EUR) per month. She uses the money to pay her children’s school fees and save for her own and her children’s future.

Over a dozen a day

Jugmani repairs 10–15 bicycles a day. The most common problems are broken tires, hand brakes, chains, and other wear parts.

Bike is best

The best bicycles in rural Nepal are ordinary women’s bikes. A bike can transport a load to the market faster than walking, and farmers save money because they don’t have to pay for a taxi.

Jugmani acquired the most expensive tools for her bicycle repair shop and a pneumatic compressor with the support of FCA. Sometimes tools need to be replaced. If suitable ones cannot be found nearby, Jugmani has to travel four to six kilometers to the Indian border and across it to buy them.

“I usually check the entire bike, even if it was brought to me because of a flat tyre. If I find other faults, I try to fix them at the same time,” Jugmani explains.

There’s a hole in the inner tube. It is revealed at a spot where the bike owner has apparently tried to patch it up with duct tape. Removing the tape, which sticks stubbornly to the rubber, is an extra step.

Everything runs smoothly on a bike

In the Shuklaphantan region of southern Nepal, Aarati Chaudhary, 32, cycles to the market in half an hour. Although the journey is slow with heavy boxes on a bumpy road, she would be able to carry much less produce on foot. A daily taxi ride would take away part of her income.

She received her trusty bike through FCA as part of a project that supports women’s livelihoods through vegetable farming. This journey, the box mainly contains pumpkins and courgettes.

Monsoon season

In August, the temperature is over 30 degrees Celsius, with humidity at 80 percent. Heavy rainfall makes it difficult to get around.

Vegetable profits

Monthly income is 40,000–50,000 rupees (240–300 EUR) from one harvest. There are 2–3 harvest seasons per year.

Hard worker

A bike rack can carry up to 60–70 kilograms of cargo. The average speed is around 10–15 km/h, depending on the cyclist and the terrain!

New bike

A bike costs between 12,000 and 15,000 rupees (€70–90), which can be more than a quarter of the harvest season’s earnings. The best bike is a standard women’s bike with few fragile parts.

THE SCHOOL BUS rattles past the yard, which has become muddy in the monsoon seaons rains. The bus is also a luxury that not all families can afford. Jugmani says that there are two schools nearby, and she has repaired many of the students’ bicycles. The main thing is that the children can get to school.

Jugmani’s hands lift the bike lying on its side. They squeeze the handbrake, check the angle of the handlebars and the tightness of the chains. A little adjustment is needed.

Bicycle repair is a craft that requires a thorough understanding of bicycle mechanics. The field has traditionally been male-dominated, but there is nothing to prevent women from training in this field.

Entrepreneurship is a relatively new phenomenon in this community, especially for women. If women do have businesses, they tend to be in more traditional fields such as hairdressing and sewing. Jugmani Chaudhary has dared to follow her own path, even though bicycle repairers are usually men.

“I don’t know any other women in this community who would do this job.”

Women are mainly expected to get married and take care of the home and children. Girls’ education is not seen as particularly important. One reason for this is that, according to tradition, girls move into their spouse’s home when they get married and are no longer a financial support to their own parents.

“When I started, many people were skeptical and doubted my abilities. I just kept doing my job.”

Nepalilainen nainen hymyilee kameralle.

Jugmani Chaudhary

Jugmani Chaudhary, 39, is a former bonded labourer who was sent to work as a maid for a wealthy family at the age of 10. She was freed at the age of 14 and got married. She trained as a bicycle repairer in 2023.

FCA has supported Jugmani through a partner organisation in starting up the business and acquiring basic tools. The family includes her husband and adult daughter and son. In addition to bicycles, Jugmani repairs the tires of three-wheeled taxis.