SUMMER’S HOTTEST
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SUMMER’SHOTTESTstyle

Find your summer style in Uganda’s refugee settlements

African fashion is rich and colourful. It is closely tied to the culture of the region, but also regularly seeks influences from other parts of the world. In the refugee settlements of Uganda, every occasion is a reason to dress well, and Congolese people in particular have gained a reputation for being stylish dressers.

Text: Ulriikka Myöhänen • Photos: Antti Yrjönen & Ulriikka Myöhänen • Videos: Ville Nykänen & Ulriikka Myöhänen • Web layout: Elisa Rimaila & Nici Lönnberg

In the video, makeup artists prepare models for a fashion show in the Kyaka refugee settlement in Uganda.

For work or for going out

South Sudanese designer Nyajuma Mapoum is wearing a slim-leg suit made from an East African fabric called kitenge. Posing next to her is Congolese Jesca Akeeza in a party dress with frills and ruffles at the waist. A hat completes the party look.

Two women pose for a fashion photo. The woman in the foreground is sitting on a podium, the woman in the background is leaning against the wall. The image of the seated woman is reflected in a mirror on the floor.
A woman in a patterned dress with frills and ruffles and a matching hat leans against a wall.

No more bad hair days!

Congolese Alex Fiston designed an outfit with the attitude of a basketball player. The sleeveless shirt calls for a jacket to guard against the rain. A colourful floppy hat completes the ensemble when the hair needs a trim. No more bad hair days!

A man in a hat stands next to the wall/Hattupäinen mies seisoo seinän vieressä.

”Dressing up is not about where you are going. Dress and style are more about who you are.”

”Everyone has the freedom to choose what they wear the next day,” says designer Alex Fiston from the Democratic Republic of Congo. He has been making fashion in Rwamwanya for seven years and says he originally learned the skills at vocational school.

Video shows barbers and hairdressers prepare models for a fashion show in the Kyaka refugee camp in Uganda.
A polaroid photo of a smiling woman holding a wig.

Hair Extensions

Hair extensions are part of the African culture of dressing. Depending on the braid, 1-3 strands are needed. The price of braids with labor is 35,000-45,000 Ugandan shillings (9-12 euros).

A polaroid photo of various make up on a table.

Everyday luxury

A makeup kit is an expensive investment. A foundation, eye makeup, and lip makeup set with all the accessories can cost its owner up to 200,000 Ugandan shillings, or 52 euros.

Requires attitude

Designed by Alex Fiston, this dress features a bold slit and a full train. The style is perfect for parties that last well into the night – and you’re sure to stand out from the crowd!

A woman poses in a one-shouldered dress/Nainen poseeraa yksiolkaimisessa mekossa.

“This dress requires attitude. It is for people who are free and enjoy life. This is not a dress for a pastor’s wife!”

Congolese Umwari Berize poses in Alex Fiston’s dress.

Kitenge

Kitenge refers to an African fabric used to make clothing, especially for women. Kitenge is recognisable by its vibrant colors and patterns.

The style was originally brought to Africa by the Dutch, who had drawn inspiration for their fabrics from the batik techniques of their then colony, Indonesia.

The hat completes the look

La sape is a Congolese culture that has grown up around men’s fashion. The rules of dress are thrown out the window, as sapeurs dress according to their own style! The look is completed with stylish sunglasses, accessories, and shoes. La sape is paradoxical: followers of the style may live modestly, but they spend considerable sums on expensive designer clothes.

“African design, Congolese style,” sums up designer Muomba Hakizimana. The collection is unique for its shiny, hand-dyed fabric, which can be shaped into shirts, jackets, shorts, and capes. Fun snap fasterners complete the style.

A serious looking man in bright clothes looks into the camera. Above his head someone holds a hat.
A polaroid of a shop dummy and a hanging outfit in a yard.

Manly conduct

This Nigerian-style men’s suit features fun striped lapels. It costs 300,000 Uganda shillings, or 78 euros. It was designed by Alex Fiston from the Democratic Republic of Congo.

A polaroid photo of a pair of shoes lying on grass

Bling for everything

These shiny men’s shoes are perfect for both formal occasions and trendy everyday wear. Designer Alex Fiston bought the shoes in Kampala for 350,000 Ugandan shillings, or 91 euros.

Like a ballerina

“For me, dressing up means change above all else. When I see something interesting, I think about how I could do it even better.”

Ugandan designer Shallon Nimusiima trains young people at the Kyaka vocational school. “When designing fashion, you have to constantly rethink things, because people change too,” says the designer.

A woman poses in a costume made of paper resembling a ballet tutu in front of a building/Nainen poseeraa paperista tehdyssä balettitutua muistuttavassa asussa rakennuksen edessä.

Ugandan model Patricia Kobusingye‘s skirt is made from an old wall calendar.

The top is made from a strip of fabric with familiar prints repeated across it.

The paper strips are glued and sewn together in layers on the skirt.

Time flies!

The thrill of freedom

This Alex Fiston designed outfit boasts heritage from three countries: the collar is reminiscent of Ghana, the design of Cameroon and the trousers of Congolese style.

A man in a white and yellow suit stands in a room leaning towards a window.

“The outfit is suitable for both small and large because of its fit,” says designer Alex Fiston. Modelled by Congolese David Dusengimana.

“The jacket itself was the result of creativity. You can wear it with or without a jacket, especially for big parties where you want to be noticed,” says designer Alex Fiston.

The jacket has a long lapel. The shirt and trousers are in stunning yellow and light shades. The fabric is beautifully embossed.

Mistress of Ceremonies

“Traditional gomesi have tapered shoulders and the belt is like a piece of jewellery on the waist.”

Gomesi is the dress worn by the Ganda people of central Uganda. Women wear it for ceremonies between families before marriage. The designer is Shallon Nimusiima, the model is Salama Balumisa.

A woman in a pink gown with a red belt stands with arms outstretched in a doorway.
A polaroid photo of a person in a blue shirt holding a chunky black and white bead necklace

Continent of beauty

The African continent dangles from a necklace made of large plastic beads. The price is 15,000 Uganda shillings or 4 euros. The designer is Alex Fiston from the Democratic Republic of Congo.

An old Singer sewing machine is on a table next to blue patterned fabric.

Print repeat

This blue print is used for all the accessories. The backpack costs 25,000 Ugandan shillings (6.5 euros), the bag 10,000 Uganda shilings (2.6 euros) and the hair clip 20,000 Ugandan shillings (5.2 euros). The designer is Nyajuma Mapoum from South Sudan.

Styled from head to toe

An unprecedented fashion show was held in February in the Kyaka refugee camp in western Uganda. Twenty-six models from countries including the Democratic Republic of Congo, South Sudan, and Uganda took to the catwalk. The models presented a total of forty stunning fashion creations, showcasing the work of seven designers.

The designers of the collections received six months of basic tailoring training at Finn Church Aid’s vocational schools in the Kyakan and Rwamwanja refugee camps. Inspiration was drawn in particular from social media and recycled materials.

In the video, models show off the collections of seven different designers at a fashion show in Kyaka refugee camp.

The styling of the models was done by students from vocational schools specialising in hairdressing and beauty care. Complex hairstyles, nails, and trial makeup were done the day before the show. The finishing touches were added with numerous accessories. Particular attention was paid to men’s shoe fashion, different lengths and colors of necklaces, and the return of bowler hats.

In this video, Ugandan fashion designer Shallon Nimusiima talks about her creative process.

Learn more about why technical and vocational training is boosting self-reliance in refugees.